PARIS. Nubwo hari impungenge z'uko ihungabana ry'ubukungu ryashoboraga kugabanuka, mu imurikagurisha rya Silmo riherutse kwerekana imyenda y'amaso byari bifite icyizere.
Perezida wa Silmo, Amelie Morel, yavuze ko umubare w’abitabiriye imurikagurisha n’abitabiriye – abashyitsi 27.000 – bari ku rugero rumwe n’urw’abari basanzweho mbere y’icyorezo. Kubera ko 50% by’abashyitsi baturutse hanze y’Ubufaransa, umubare munini w’abashyitsi baturutse muri Amerika no mu Burasirazuba bwo Hagati, batari bitabiriye imurikagurisha mbere y’uko icyorezo gitangira, bagarutse ari benshi.
Morel yagize ati: “Byari ibintu bitunguranye cyane. Iki ni igihamya cy'uko inganda zacu zigikeneye imurikagurisha kandi ni igihe cy'ingenzi ku nganda muri rusange.”
“Twishimiye cyane kugaruka i Silmo turi kumwe n’abantu benshi,” ibi ni ibyatangajwe na Antonio Jove, umuyobozi wa Marcolin EMEA. “Inyandiko y’umwaka ushize yari igifite ingaruka ku mbogamizi za COVID-19 kandi ni byiza kubona abantu ubu… amaherezo basubira ku ‘mico yabo’… Amanama yo mu buryo bwa Live ni ingenzi cyane mu nganda zacu.”
Inganda zikora ibijyanye n'amatara zitwaye neza mu gice cya mbere cy'umwaka, aho abamurikaga bagabanyije impungenge z'uko ubukungu bushobora kugabanuka. Christelle Barranger, Perezida wa EssilorLuxottica EMEA Wholesale, yagize ati: “Ndatekereza ko iki kibazo kizaba ari cyo kintu nyamukuru mu biganiro, ariko wenda Silmo si yo ihuriro ry'ibiganiro kuko byari bishimishije cyane icyo gihe.” Kuri bo, ibyemezo byafashwe mu buryo bwitondewe, [ariko] hari n'icyizere cy'uko tuzabirengaho.”
Moritz Krüger, umwe mu bashinze akaba n'umuyobozi mukuru w'uruganda rwo mu Budage rwitwa Mykita, yagize ati: “Abahagarariye abagurisha bacu bagize ibihe byiza by'impeshyi kandi twumvise ko abakiriya hirya no hino ku isi bishimiye cyane ibyo bagurisha. Imiterere y'aho igeze irashimishije cyane, bityo dushobora kongera kugurisha.”
“Uburayi uyu mwaka bwari bumeze nk’uko Amerika ya Ruguru yari imeze umwaka ushize, bityo habayeho kwisubiraho gukomeye cyane,” ibi byavuzwe na Angelo Trocchia, umuyobozi mukuru w’itsinda rya Safilo, wagarutse nyuma yo kuva muri iki gitaramo umwaka ushize. “Mu Burayi, turimo gukora neza, ariko muri Amerika ya Ruguru byose ni ibisanzwe, kuko umwaka ushize bazamutse cyane. Ibindi bice by’isi bimeze neza.”
Yakomeje agira ati: “Nindeba imbere, nzarushaho kwitonda… Izamuka ry’ibiciro ritangiye kugaragara, kandi ndatekereza ko mu mpera z’umwaka tuzareba uko abaguzi batangira kubyitwaramo.”
Abareba kure bavuga ko amasosiyete akora ibishushanyo mbonera afite uruhare runini mu byiciro byo ku rwego rwo hejuru n’ibyo ku rwego rwo hejuru. Barranger yagize ati: “Birumvikana ko ubutunzi bw’akataraboneka buri kwiyongera cyane, kandi uko amafaranga [y’ubuvuzi] agabanuka, ubwishingizi bw’ibyo ku rwego rwo hejuru nabwo buri kwiyongera vuba mu gihe runaka.”
Hagati aho, ibibazo by’ibiciro biracyari mu ruhererekane rw’ibicuruzwa kandi byitezwe ko bizagira ingaruka ku biciro mu gihe kiri imbere. “Izamuka ry’ibiciro ririmo kwiyongera mu bice bimwe na bimwe by’isi, bityo turimo gusuzuma ingaruka izi ngaruka n’uburyo bwo kuzigabanya,” ibi ni ibyatangajwe na Barranger. “Turimo gukora ibishoboka byose kugira ngo twihanganire izamuka ry’ibiciro, kandi turitonda cyane ku buryo dushobora kugira ingaruka ku biciro.”
Krueger yagize ati: “Ndabizi ko abenshi mu bahanganye bongereye ibiciro. Ntabwo tuzazamura ibiciro, nibura uyu mwaka. Tuzagomba kureba byose bizatera imbere.”
Sebastian Brusse, Umuyobozi Mukuru akaba n'umuyobozi w'ubuhanzi muri Jaw Studio Lyon, urimo gufasha mu guhanga akarere gashya, yagize ati: “Turashaka kuba inzira yo gufasha inganda zikora ibishushanyo mbonera kugira impinduramatwara yabyo mu ikoranabuhanga.”
EssilorLuxottica – ikigo cyonyine gikomeye cy’amaso cyakoresheje indorerwamo zigezweho ubwo cyakoranaga na Meta kuri Ray-Ban Stories – cyashyize ahagaragara udushya twacyo dushya, umurongo w’indorerwamo z’amaso zagenewe imikino ku ruhushya rwa Oakley. Amashusho yagenewe kwambarwa hamwe na ecouteur kandi afite amaboko yoroshye, mu gihe lenseri zikoreshwa mu kunoza itandukaniro rya ecran, harimo na ecran za OLED, no kuyungurura urumuri rw’ubururu.
“Iyo utekereje ku ndorerwamo zigezweho, abantu bavuga ko ari inzira igana ku bintu bigezweho mu gihe kizaza, ariko zatangiye gukoreshwa mu ndorerwamo nk'imikino ya videwo,” Barranger yagize ati. “Ibyo bituma nkunda cyane indorerwamo zigezweho: ejo zizaba zihujwe n'isi y'ikoranabuhanga.”
Isosiyete yo muri Suwede yitwa Skugga irimo kwerekana icyo ivuga ko ari uguhindura ikoranabuhanga ry’indorerwamo z’ubwenge kuko modules zayo zishobora gushyirwa mu bwoko ubwo aribwo bwose bw’amashusho. Alf Ericsson, Umuyobozi Mukuru w’Ibicuruzwa, yasobanuye ko intego yacu ari “kutarema ikoranabuhanga rijyanye n’igikoresho abantu batazikoresha.” “Mu myaka ibiri ishize, twabonye impinduka zikomeye mu kwemera [inganda zikora indorerwamo z’amaso zabonye ko] bitabaye ibyo amasosiyete akomeye y’ikoranabuhanga yakwigarurira inganda z’amaso nk’uko yayoboraga inganda z’amasaha.”
Nyuma y’imyaka irindwi y’iterambere, ikoranabuhanga rishobora gupima ingendo n’ibidukikije, hamwe n’inyungu zitandukanye zishobora kuboneka, kuva ku gupima uko umukoresha ahura n’umwanda n’urumuri kugeza ku gutanga amakuru ajyanye n’imiterere ye n’imikino, ndetse no kuba ikoranabuhanga rifunguye ku bakora porogaramu. Iyi sosiyete yahawe igihembo cya Silmo d'Or mu cyiciro cy’ikoranabuhanga rigezweho/ibicuruzwa bihujwe.
Ababikurikiranira hafi bavuga ko inganda zikora amashusho zatinze kwinjira mu ikoranabuhanga, ahanini bitewe nuko igice kinini cy’inganda kigikomeje kwigarurirwa n’abaganga b’amaso bigenga. Cody Cho, visi perezida ushinzwe iyamamazabikorwa ku isi muri Dita, yagize ati: “Amashusho akenshi ni ubucuruzi bw’imiryango kandi bushobora kurwanya ikoranabuhanga.” “Mu bijyanye n’ikoranabuhanga, indorerwamo zirasigaye inyuma imyaka itatu cyangwa ine.”
Uyu muturage wo muri Silicon Valley, Cho amaze imyaka myinshi akora amakuru nk'igice cy'isi ya Dita. Yagize ati: “Dukoresha ikoranabuhanga rinini kugira ngo duhanure.”
Urugero, abandi bakinnyi b’indorerwamo zikomeye bagaragaye muri iri murikagurisha ryihariye ry’abashyitsi kugira ngo bagaragaze ubushobozi bwabo nk’ibikoresho byo koroshya gutumiza no kunoza imicungire y’ibikoresho, ibyo bikaba byaratanzwe n’Umuyobozi wa Microsoft ushinzwe iyamamazabikorwa ry’ibicuruzwa Otman Chiheb.
Nyuma y’imyaka mike, imiterere minini cyane igezweho idafite imigozi nka Dita's Embra - moderi ya mbere idafite imigozi yagenewe abagore gusa mu myaka 20 - iratangaje, nk'uko umuhanga mu by'imico Louis Lee abivuga, ariko nyuma y’imyaka mike imiterere y’imigozi yakoreshejwe mu 2010, iki kigo cyahinduye imiterere ya acetate.
Iki kigo kirimo kubyaza umusaruro icyifuzo cy’amaso yacyo meza kandi kirimo kwagura amaduka yacyo adafite aho ahuriye n’ubucuruzi ku mihanda ihenze, nk’uko Cho yabitangaje, aho aherutse gufungura kuri Rodeo Drive muri Beverly Hills na Brompton Road i Londres. Cho yavuze ko iki kigo gifite intego yo gufungura andi maduka arindwi cyangwa umunani mu myaka mike iri imbere, kigamije imijyi nka Miami, Las Vegas, Mykonos, Shanghai, Dubai na Singapuru.
Guhindura ibirango gakondo ni ikimenyetso cy’ibirango byinshi bya Marcolin nka Pucci na Zegna byakozwe hamwe n’ibirango byabo bishya.
Muri rusange, abakora imyenda y'amaso babonye ko bakeneye cyane amakaramu mato kandi afite ishusho kare, utuntu duto dushimishije, ndetse n'impinduka ziva ku mukara zijya ku mukara, ibyo bikaba byarahindutse mu myaka yashize.
Impinduka mu myanya y’abahanga bamwe na bamwe iragaragara. Shafiro, yahuye n’ikibazo mu myaka yashize cyo gutakaza impushya nyinshi zinjiza amafaranga zirimo Dior, Gucci na Fendi, irimo kuvugurura imiterere y’ibicuruzwa byayo. Iri tsinda ririmo gushaka kongera ubushobozi bwaryo mu ishami ry’imyenda y’abagore, urugero nka Carolina Herrera, bagiranye amasezerano umwaka ushize, ndetse n’izindi sosiyete zikora ibijyanye n’ubuzima nka Boss na Isabel Marant, ndetse no binyuze mu sosiyete zayo bwite nka Polaroid na Carrera. Trocchia yagize ati: “Mu by’ukuri turimo gukora ibintu bitandukanye cyane ubu,” “Muri iki gihe turimo gukora neza, impushya nshya zirimo kugenda neza, impushya za kera zirimo kugenda neza, sosiyete zacu zirimo kugenda neza….”
Amwe mu masosiyete manini yateye imbere mu kubungabunga ibidukikije. Safilo yerekanye amafoto n'amajipo byakozwe mu bikoresho bya Eastman Renew byasubiwemo imiti, mu gihe Mykita yahinduye ikoresheje amafoto yose ya acetate kandi ivuga ko ari yo ya mbere yabikoze mu buryo bwose. Bagize hafi kimwe cya kabiri cy'imigabane yabo, ntabwo byazamuye ibiciro.
Umukobwa wa Jamie Foxx avuga ko “yamaze ibyumweru byinshi atava mu bitaro” kandi ko “yakinnye umukino wo gukaraba intoki ejo.”
Abaguzi bakomeye barimo kureka amavuta yabo yo kwisiga ku maso ya $90 bakayakoresha kuri uyu muti wo kwisiga urwanya iminkanyari wa $6 ukomoka ku kirango cyemewe na Jane Fonda.
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Igihe cyo kohereza: Gicurasi-18-2023